Now Let's Put the System
to Work in a Portrait...

n my book Portraits From Life* (North Light Books, 1999), you will find two portrait demonstrations in which the procedure is described in 29 steps. I encourage you to get the book and study this detailed procedure. The 29 steps are organized into six categories of activity: the Layout, the Shadows, the Halftones, the Lights, Restating, and Particularizing. Here I am illustrating selected steps from each of those activities.

Portrait Study
of Eric Roundy
by John Howard Sanden.

The Layout

Beginning directly on a white canvas, using a number 4 bristle filbert brush and Portrait Institute Neutral 5, make a simplified drawing of the major forms and landmarks. The dimensions should be life-size. In an adult male, the distance from the highest point on the hair to the bottom of the chin is approximately ten inches. The first four strokes establish the size and placement. These strokes are: (1) the top of the head, (2) the bottom of the chin, (3) the farthest point to the left on the hair, and (3) the farthest point to the right.
The Shadows

It's traditional in portraiture to paint the shadow tones first. Shadows establish the solid structure of the head. Here, my first shadow mixture is Dark 1 with Chromium Oxide Green added. Darker accents in the shadows are Dark 2 with Chromium Oxide Green added. The shadow tones on the hair are Neutral 7 plus black in the darkest areas and Neutral 7 plus Neutral 5 elsewhere. The shadow on the collar is Neutral 5 plus Chromium Oxide Green.
The Halftones

After the darks are in place, the next step is to paint the transitional halftones - those planes that lie along or near the darks. The ruddy halftone along the cheekbone is Halftone 2 plus Venetian Red. The large areas of warm halftone in the lower third of the face are Halftone 2 plus Cadmium Red Light, and then grayed down with Neutral 5. The halftones on the hair are Neutral 5 plus Yellow Ochre.
The Lights

Light 3
is an excellent starting point for the ruddy pink tones in the central portion of the face. Light 3 with Cadmium Red Light added yields beautiful healthy-looking tones. Light 3 plus Venetian Red produces a more subtle shade. Light 3 plus Alizarin Crimson yields cool pink highlights. For the coolest pinks, use white and Alizarin Crimson. In the lower third of the face, the lights are grayed, with the addition of various colors, such as Chromium Oxide Green, Cerulean Blue or Ivory Black.
Restating

In the Restating step, you go back over the entire painting, in the same order that you originally painted it, and restate everything. Starting in the shadows, some are made darker and more crisp. All of the halftones are restated, some going darker, some lighter, with the transitions im-proved. Drawing is corrected with each stroke, and the painting begins to take on a solid three-dimensional quality.
Particularizing

Up until this time. the painting has been proceeding in general and simplified terms, with the emphasis on tone and color. Now the emphasis shifts to the particulars that will make the painting a portrait. The eyes are modeled, and details are added. The nose is shaped and refined in terms of its planes, and details added. The moustache and mouth are given specific details.
   

The Completed Portrait
Finishing touches usually involve refinements in drawing and detail. The subtle halftones around the mouth are adjusted. Highlights are reinforced. Details in the necktie are added. The painting receives the artist's signature.